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| Good glue for the fingerboard? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=2573 |
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| Author: | Colby Horton [ Sun Jul 24, 2005 6:57 am ] |
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What is a good glue to use when gluing down the fingerboard? The LMI white glue is out of the question because I'm looking for alternatives. I hate having to pay shipping to have a bottle of glue shipped when their is nothing else I need. It also has a pretty short shelf life so I can't stock up. I've been thinking about the Franklin liquid hide glue that stew mac sells. Is this any good or something to stay away from? I can't use hot melt hide glue either, I don't have a glue pot. |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:15 am ] |
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Hi Colby The titebound liquid hide is ok, I use it for attaching the fingerboard extension to the body, like all hide glues it smells a bit, my main glue for guitar building is Titebound original, I have heard it said that one or two people have had a problem with shrinkage when using, I have never experienced this. It has a shelf life of around 12 Months. |
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| Author: | tl507362 [ Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:20 am ] |
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Just go to a hardware store and buy some Franklins Titebond. That is what I used and never had a problem. I have also used Old Brown Glue from Here I used this glue on my fretboard extension and bridge on my last guitar and had no problems getting it off with heat/steam. It has been holding my bridge for 6 months and no problems. You only need to heat it to 80 degrees, and a little baby bottle warmer will do the trick. I think these little bottle warmers you can get at walmart for under $5. Also, the open time is about 20 mins, so no problem on time to get everything clamped! Tracy |
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| Author: | Colby Horton [ Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:26 am ] |
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Yeah, I've been using Titebond for just about everything on my guitars except for parts that I thought could possibly need reversing.. I thought yellow glue would have been more of a pain to heat and remove. |
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| Author: | Michael McBroom [ Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:38 am ] |
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I'll second (er -- third?) the Titebond vote. Just regular Titebond, too. Don't use II or III. It's cheap, it's at your local hardware store, and the bond is stronger than the wood, plus the day may come when you'll need to remove that fingerboard, and you'll be able to get it off if you glue it down with TB. Best, Michael |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Sun Jul 24, 2005 7:41 am ] |
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Colby You are correct that the Titebond will be harder to seperate, than say hide. But it is by no means impossible. |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:11 am ] |
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I use hide glue on everything EXCEPT the FB to neck. Reason...the water in the glue actually caused a backbow on my first effort. Since that time, I use waterless glue...epoxy. I credit Mario for that lesson. Yep, I know...how are you going to separate it if needed? I'll call Mario!  I understand it can be done with reasonable heat and lots of patience. Perhaps he'll chime in on this one.
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| Author: | Colin S [ Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:24 am ] |
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Colby, I too use ordinary Titebond for the fingerboard but I don't glue my FB extension to the top, but to a neck extension, so I have little need to remove it. I do prefer, hide glue for braces, bridge, top to sides, etc but Titebond does everything else on guitars. Lutes are all hide, or fish glue. Colin |
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| Author: | Mario [ Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:45 am ] |
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My one use for epoxy! This isn't my idea, as it was passed on to me by other great builders. Epoxy works great for this as it doesn't introduce water to the neck, causing a backbow. You glue it on straight, it comes out straight. As for future repairs, the hardware store Elmer's epoxy I use releases at about the same temperature as Titebond, perhaps even less, and it doesn't require great patience, either. Once it reaches the temperature, the epoxy just goes soft, and the fretboard peels right off. Looking at the specs on most epoxies, most have a release temperature that is reasonably low; just check before using it. To check those that you can't find the specs on, simply glue up a couple scraps with what you plan on using, give it a week top cure nicely, then put an iron to it to see if it comes apart readily or not. |
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| Author: | Mark Swanson [ Mon Jul 25, 2005 4:13 pm ] |
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Howdy Mario! Ever since you told me about the epoxy, I have not looked back. I used to have troubles with the backbow, not anymore. |
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